I'll never forget the towering mountains, lush forest, azure sky, fresh air, and those kind people living in the plateaus. I still pine for their mysterious existence and peculiar way of life as a French explore. The sun was scorching and I was impatient to get to Yunnan, a place I had heard about for years. Yunnan gets its name from its location to the south of Yun Ling (Cloudy Mountain). I was heading for the northwest of Yunnan Province, to Deqin County which is well known for its Meili Snow Mountain.
Deqin County
Setting out from Zhongdian, capital of Diqing Autonomous Prefecture by bus and bumping along for about 184 km, I finally arrived at Deqin at 4pm. Our bus passed through the town of Benzilan, which means golden sandbank in Tibetan. Benzilan used to be an important trading center for tea and horses, and is famous for its capable Ma Jizi (horse drivers). The Tibetan culture in this strategic pass of southwest China bears unique regional characteristics. Local costumes have absorbed the styles of Yi, Mongolia and Pumi ethnic minorities. The area is also famous for its wooden bowls, containers for zanba (a Tibetan food) and roasted qingke barley.
At 3,400 meters above sea level, Deqin is the highest and northernmost county in Yunnan Province. When Hu Xia, a local official, left his post in 1877, he erected a Deqin stele on which he named Shengping, which means, put on a show of peace and prosperity. At dusk, the streets are lively and noisy, with the villagers bargaining with merchants to buy Songrong (a kind of mushroom which is also popular in Japan).
Dongzhulin Temple
Dongzhulin Temple, built in 1667 and located in Shusong village of Benzilan, was originally named Chongchongcuogang, which means temple by a crane lake. It is considered to be one of 13 great Lama temples in China. The four-story main hall is made of wood. In frothe founding father of the Gelu School, his disciple Damarenqing and the first Panchen Lama, Kezhujie. The 6.8 meter-high figure of Qiangba is on the second floor together with a figure of Sakyamuni, which is 10.5 meters high. The crown, the pearls, and gems inlaid in the chest of the figure are presents from Sela Temple in Lhasa. Another treasure in Dongzhulin Temple is a huge Tangka, a kind of traditional Tibetan picture, usually drawn on paper or cloth, which is 8.5-meters-long and 5.2-meters-wide and made of colorful silk thread. Buddhist doctrine is inscribed on the Tangka.
Baimang Snow Mountain
Leaving Benzilan and driving along the road, we entered Baimang Snow Mountain reservation area. Baimang Snow Mountain stands in the southeast of Deqin County. Most of its peaks are over 5,000 meters. Zhalaqueni, the highest peak is 5,640-meters-high, while Xiaruoxiang, the lowest point of Baimang Snow Mountain, is 2,080 meters above sea level. The mountain is the largest (180,000 hectares) and the highest national reservation area in Yunnan Province, where well-preserved ancient forest can be seen. In summer the mountain becomes a sea of azalea.
Winter and spring are the ideal times to view Meili Snow Mountain.
It?s in the west of Deqin County and the best spot to view it is Feilai Temple, 10km from Deqin County. Meili Snow Mountain has 13 peaks whose average height is 6,000 meters above sea level, named Taizi Shisan Feng, which means 13 princes peaks. Among them, Kagebo is the highest peak in Yunnan Province, 6,740 meters above sea level.
Kagebo, which means white snow mountain in Tibetan, is considered the god of the snowy mountains and a sacred place of pilgrimage for Tibetan Buddhism. A local tale tells how Kagebo became the patron saint of Jiajuba, a branch of Ningma School. Originally Kagebo was an evil spirit with 9 heads and 18 bodies. After been converted by Budda Padmasambhava, Kagebo became shipped by Tibetan people, usually Kagebo rode a white horse with a sword in hand. His majestic appearance was similar to that of the peak. It is said that if you climb to the top of the Potala Palace, you will see the shadow of Kagebo through the colorful clouds. Every year during the end of autumn and the beginning of winter, thousands of Tibetan Buddhists walk to Kagebo. During the year of the sheep in the Tibetan calendar, the number of adherents will multiply and the spectacle is very grand.
Kagebo Peak has been described as ??the most beautiful peak in the world?? by Joseph F. Rocker, the renowned Amican explorer and botanist. In 1986, the Panchen Lama Jianzeng once held rituals there. As usual, Meili Snow Mountain was enveloped in layers of clouds and mist. But as soon as the Panchen Lama recited scriptures and sprinkled some holy water, the clouds parted and Kagebo emerged from the mist. This has become a widespread legend among local people.
Mingyong Glacier sits at the foot of Kagebo Peak and looks like a long piece of white silk. Running from 5,500 meters down to 2,700 meters, only 800 meters above Lancang River, Mingyong is one of the few low altitude glaciers in the world. There is a 40km ride between Deqin and Mingyong Village, and then you can walk or rent a horse (60 yuan) to get to the glacier.
In the south of Kagebo Peak is a waterfall, named Yubenshenpu (holy collapsing rain), coming down from a 1,000m high cliff. It is said that to be drenched b the water here will bring you good luck.
Kagebo is still a virgin peak, unconquered by mountaineers. Since the first effort was made by a British climbing team in 1902, Americans, Japanese, and Chinese climbers have all tried to scale the mountain, but all attempts have ended in failure. A joint effort by Chinese and Japanese climbers to reach the summit in January 1991 ended in tragedy when all the team?s members died in an accident. Their remains were not found until July 1998. An old man told us with a warning tone as a god. How can human beings step on a god -- Cizhong Church?
Cizhong Roman Catholic Church, a Gothic building, can be found in Cizhong Village, 96km away from Cizhong County. Constructed by French missionaries, it used to be the main church in Yunnan parish. Two trees planted by the church?s first priest over 80 years ago are still standing in the yard. The porch is made of stone, on which a 20-meter-high clock tower was built. Though it was built years ago, you still can feel yesterday?s magnificence inside the church. Among the highlights of the interior are the Virgin Mary images mounted on blue and yellow Tangka, hung on the posts. This mixture of western and eastern religious design is deliberate. It seems that everything here is telling you that western and eastern culture can mix harmoniously.
According to Wu Gongding, the priest of Cizhong church, there are 123 families in Cizhong Village, among which 89 families are Catholic. Local people are free to choose their own religious belief. Wu invited us to his home where we drank the fragrant French wine that is brewed locally. Cizhong church still keeps the brewing tools left behind by French missionaries. The vines planted in Cizhong were brought all the way from France. In Cizhong, every family has a custom of brewing and drinking their own grape wine. Who would have thought that in a remote Chinese village, people would be drinking delicious French wine every day?
Getting There
A three-hour flight to Kunming from Beijing, followed by a 20-hour bus trip (134 yuan) from Kunming to Zhongdian, the transfer station (buses depart Kunming Panjiawan, and Nanyao Bus Station, from 1pm to 6pm every day), and finally a 9-hour bus journey from Zhongdian to Deqin (23 yuan, 2 buses depart Zhongdian Bus Station from 7: 30am to 8: 30am). To Meili Snow Mountain and Cizhong church, renting cars is the only choice.
Important Reminders
Tourists with heart disease and hypertension are discouraged fro as the altitude may worsen the condition.
The best time to visit is from January to May.
Bring warm clothes and cold and stomach medicine. Taking Hong Jing Tian and Ji Gan, Tibetan herbal medicine, or the local buttered tea two days ahead of the trip may prevent an adverse reaction to the altitude.
(Beijing Today February 13, 2003)
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